The Dark Fountain – La Fontana Oscura

Pigeons, seagulls, churches, fountains. When I think about recurring images of Rome, these come to mind like a Haiku. The Baroque proliferation in the 16 and 1700s regurgitated sumptuous marble fountains with boldly chiselled protagonists across the city; I can rattle them off like flipping through those concertina postcard sets: Trevi Fountain, Turtle Fountain, FountainContinue reading “The Dark Fountain – La Fontana Oscura”

Midnight in Rome

A comforting chill glides over my skin. Comforting, not because of the sensation of stabbing night air on the back of a scooter, but because I am riding through the city that I have made home for the last three years. Stars scintillate in the sky like pinpricked light through a dark cloth, giving everythingContinue reading “Midnight in Rome”

The “Love & Gelato” guide to Rome

Anyone who was a teenager in a generation gone by would have a romanticised vision of Rome told through the eyes of the tween character Lizzie McGuire. Before you start making references to “Paolo” and chanting the saccharine melody of “This is what dreams are made of”, Netflix has returned to this trope for theContinue reading “The “Love & Gelato” guide to Rome”

6 souvenirs from Rome you (actually) want.

There is nothing worse than pretending you like a gift. The strain in your cheek muscles and the lacklustre glint in your eye as you say a high-pitched “I love it!” The worst souvenirs you can imagine abound here in Rome: magnets, teatowels, aprons with naked statues and the fiendish keyring. I remember that myContinue reading “6 souvenirs from Rome you (actually) want.”

Top 10 stops in North-Eastern Rome – Part 2

If you read the previous post successfully, you should be sugar laden and ready to explore a little closer to my place in the African Quarter. Viale Somalia, Viale Libia, Viale Etiopia and Viale Eritrea are the four main roads that delineate this neighborhood, but do not come expecting a vibrant African oasis in theContinue reading “Top 10 stops in North-Eastern Rome – Part 2”

Top 10 stops in North-Eastern Rome – Part 1

The sprawling elegance of the Villa Borghese Gardens – Living in the Northern quartiere, I consider the equisitely Italianate gardens of the Borghese nobility to be a little more central, but are a grand starting point to wander from the city centre (known as centro and pronounced – chen-tro) towards the North. From Piazza delContinue reading “Top 10 stops in North-Eastern Rome – Part 1”

Rome’s buried Golden House – older than the Colosseum

If you have not read “Alice in Wonderland”, you have most likely seen snippets of the Disney take on this classic Lewis Carroll tale: an ingenuous girl with an innate sense of curiosity enters this magical world and embarks on this madcap adventure involving a Cheshire cat, the Queen of Hearts and the Madhatter. ItContinue reading “Rome’s buried Golden House – older than the Colosseum”

The oldest pharmacy in Europe: A treasure hunt

When photos are strictly off limits for a location in Rome, you know it’s a gem. When you can only get in with a private booking, you feel this bougie privilege of being a polished traveler: your in-the-know cultural awareness has opened secret doors to an off the path location. When I moved to Rome,Continue reading “The oldest pharmacy in Europe: A treasure hunt”